Grape Variety Guide: Cabaret Noir

Cabaret Noir is a modern variety rather than a historic one. It belongs to a family of grapes known as PIWIs, from the German pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning fungus-resistant. These are varieties bred deliberately to resist the mildews that force vineyards into repeated spraying, developed by the Swiss breeder Valentin Blattner from Cabernet Franc crossed with disease-resistant parentage.

It is a young variety and still uncommon but part of a family of hybrids varietals that are increasing in popularity.

Cabaret Noir characteristics

Deeply coloured, noticeably darker than anything in the Pinot family. Dark fruit leads: blackcurrant, bramble and damson, often with a leafy, herbal edge inherited from its Cabernet parentage. Firmer tannin and good acidity give it structure, and it holds its colour and definition in cool vintages where other red varieties fade.

Why does Cabaret Noir suit England?

English summers are unpredictable and this almost always means disease pressure. In July 2023, for example, the region had two thirds more rain than average and barely three quarters of its usual sunshine, which is precisely the weather that mildew thrives in. A variety that resists those diseases needs fewer treatments, which means fewer passes through the vineyard, less diesel and less input.

There is a second reason, and it is about the wine rather than the farming. English reds struggle for colour and structure, because Pinot Noir in a cool climate tends to give pale, light wine. Cabaret Noir ripens well here and brings genuine depth of colour and firmer tannin, which makes a serious English red possible rather than merely plausible.

Our approach to growing Cabaret Noir at Dillions 

Our Cabaret Noir is planted in rows 28 and 29 with just 400 vines in total. It is blended with Pinot Noir for our red wine and the Cabaret brings colour, structure and dark fruit, the Pinot brings lift and perfume.

Cabaret Noir Frequently asked questions

What is Cabaret Noir?

Cabaret Noir is a modern black grape variety bred to resist fungal disease. It belongs to a group known as PIWIs, from the German pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning fungus-resistant. It was developed by the Swiss breeder Valentin Blattner from Cabernet Franc crossed with disease-resistant parentage.

What is a PIWI grape variety?

A grape bred specifically to resist the fungal diseases, principally downy and powdery mildew, that force vineyards into repeated spraying. PIWIs need markedly less protection than conventional vines, which means fewer passes through the vineyard and lower inputs. They are increasingly planted in wet climates.

What does Cabaret Noir taste like?

Deeply coloured and noticeably darker than anything in the Pinot family, with blackcurrant, bramble and damson fruit and a leafy, herbal edge inherited from its Cabernet parentage. Firmer tannin and good acidity give it structure, and it holds colour and definition in cool vintages where other red varieties fade.

Why is Cabaret Noir grown in England?

For two reasons. It resists the fungal disease that thrives in wet English summers, so it needs less protection. And it ripens well here while delivering genuine colour and tannin, which makes a serious English still red possible where Pinot Noir alone would give something pale and light.

Are disease-resistant grapes better for the environment?

They require fewer fungicide treatments, which means fewer tractor passes, less fuel and lower inputs overall. That is a concrete reduction rather than a general claim. They are not a complete answer — resistance is not immunity, and vineyards growing them still farm actively — but the difference in treatments is real.

Is Cabaret Noir a hybrid grape?

Yes. Its disease resistance comes from crossing Vitis vinifera, the European wine grape, with species that carry natural resistance. Older hybrids had a reputation for unusual flavours, but modern breeding has largely resolved that, and varieties like Cabaret Noir make wine in a conventional style.